Demystifying the Chemistry of Skin Care

I agree that there are harmful chemicals in this world. However, the media also loves to hype the dangers of chemicals such as sulfates, parabens, talc, retinol, etc. and this raises unjustified alarm. In a lot of people’s minds chemicals are equal to toxins or poison. Keep in mind that products used on our skin topically are not the same as ingesting them. Did you know that there are 80,000 synthetic AND natural chemicals (give or take a few) and only around 200 of them have been tested for safety?

For example, triethanolamine has been linked by the media to kidney and liver cancer. However, we know through a lot of clinical testing that not enough triethanolamine is used in cosmetics to even reach toxic levels. Lead is used in lipstick in such a small amount, it becomes irrelevant. You would have to eat 5 tubes of lipstick to reach a toxic level. We’ve been using parts of fruits and vegetables in skin care products for thousands of years. Many of them contain naturally-occurring chemicals and toxins. For example, peach pits contain cyanide. Oranges have methanol in them. Keep in mind though, just because something is natural does not mean it has been clinically tested and is safe to use on your skin.

Many natural chemicals can be harmful, especially if misused while many synthetic chemicals not found in nature are life-saving. So when it comes to any type of skin care, it’s best to use those products only when they are clinically tested, safe and effective. Just because a skin care product has organic or natural on the label does not mean it is safe and effective. The main point to consider is that a skin care product's integrity depends on whether its ingredients are proven safe and effective backed by clinical studies and whether the concentration and delivery of the ingredients are appropriate.

Meet Chemistry Expert Joe Schwarcz

Joe Schwarcz, Director of McGill University’s Office for Science and Society, recently conducted a very informative speech at SPARK Convention 2015 about chemicals in skin care, organic vs. natural and the science of aging. He is well known for his informative and entertaining public lectures on these topics. Professor Schwarcz has received numerous awards for teaching chemistry and for interpreting science for the public. He hosts "The Dr. Joe Show" on Montreal's CJAD and has appeared hundreds of times on The Discovery Channel, CTV, CBC, TV Ontario and Global Television. Dr. Schwarcz also writes a newspaper column titled “The Right Chemistry” and has authored a number of books, all of which have been on the best seller list.

First and foremost when it comes to your skin, Dr. Schwarcz will tell you to stay out of the sun! This is worse for you than any chemicals that may be in your skin care. People want magic while still getting a sun tan or going to tanning beds, but magic doesn’t happen when you tan.

Dr. Schwarcz will tell you there is absolutely no difference between synthetic chemicals and chemicals produced by nature. What he will let you know is that there is a big difference between hazard and risk. You can reduce your risks, but you can’t reduce the hazard. He recommends that we don’t listen to all the hype. Even though the FDA does not monitor the skin care business, the Peer Review Scientific Literature does. The business is self-monitoring. Companies that are not necessarily all organic and natural do clinical testing. They do not want to risk hurting anyone and getting sued. Listen to the British Journal of Dermatology. This is why the FDA does not monitor, they don’t need to!

A lot of chemicals, both synthetic AND natural, are what we call endocrine disruptors. Endocrine disruptors are chemicals that at certain doses can interfere with the endocrine system or hormones in mammals. These disruptors can cause cancerous tumors, birth defects and other developmental disorders. Any system in the body controlled by hormones can be derailed by hormone disruptors. The disruptors can produce adverse developmental, reproductive, neurological, and immune effects in both humans and wild life. Again, you have to measure the risk against the hazard and if the chemicals have been clinically tested for safety.

Some Popular Chemicals Used in Skin Care Products

There is a lot of research in the cosmetic field. They even have their own governing body, The Cosmetic Ingredients Review Panel. They make the rules as to what and how much can be put into cosmetics. Again, cosmetics do not come under review by the FDA because they are not needed. Cosmetic companies want repeat customers, so they do monitor and test their products through other reviews and panels, not the FDA.

Below are details on popular chemicals used in some skin care and cosmetics that get a bad name, but is the dangerous hype about them really just scare tactics without clinical testing to back up those bad claims?

Phthalates retard loss of scent. They are used as a plasticizer in shower curtains, children’s toys, etc. What is the evidence of harm? This chemical was given to pregnant mice in high doses. They then isolated the male babies. Their orifices got closer. This experiment was reproducible to about 5%. The lower the percentages, the higher the risk of human error in these studies.

Parabens stop bacterial growth. Parabens are necessary for use as preservatives. In one study, they did find changes in some cells, but this study had NO controls. Parabens are animal pheromones. They occur in nature. The same percentage used in cosmetics is equal to the same amount in blueberries. We still eat blueberries.

Grapefruit seed extract (a lot of people wanting natural use grapefruit seed oil) has additives to preserve it. Preservatives such as parabens discussed above make things safer. Every time you reach into a jar of any skin care product, you deposit bacteria. This is why it is best to have a little paraben in your skin care rather than none at all. Do you really want to risk getting a nasty bacterial infection all over your face that takes months to get rid of just because you think that organic or natural skin care products are better for your skin?

Hydroquinone, a popular skin lightener, creates problems if the amount is over 2%. Law forbids any amount over 2%. This chemical does NOT accumulate in the body! It breaks down very quickly. Hydroquinone when fed to rodents in high doses will create cancer. Studies have fed high doses to humans with no harm. Hydroquinone is also found in blueberries. Hydroquinone should not be used when pregnant. There is no evidence that it is risky in pregnant women. However, there is no sense in taking the chance.

Retinol is found in many over-the-counter products and has been favored by dermatologists for decades. It is a weaker version of tretinoin, a prescription vitamin A that is highly effective in reversing sun damage and signs of aging. There are many people that can’t tolerate tretinoin because it can be very irritating and drying. Retinol is milder yet still effective. Vitamin A derivatives, including retinol, rapidly break down when exposed to the sun and air and should be used at night only. Retinol-containing products should always come in pumps or tubes with tight-fitting caps. In day time products, retinol can have the opposite effect and actually make skin age faster because it is more susceptible to the sun, no matter the amount of sun protection promised in day time products, foundations or sunscreens. Something else to consider is that retinol, like all vitamin A derivatives, is NOT recommended for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. The bottom line is that retinol is a useful and proven ingredient in its proper place, night time products.

Product Risk vs. Benefit

The presence of either synthetic or natural chemicals doesn’t mean the presence of risk. Apples have formaldehyde and acetone. You have to look at the numbers. It was Paracelsus who said, “All things are poison and nothing is without poison; only the dose makes a thing not a poison.” When chemicals are measured by parts per billion, you can create a paralysis of analysis. In cosmetics and skin care products, whether the chemical is natural or synthetic is irrelevant. It is the same chemical.

When it comes to science, according to Dr. Schwarcz, you can never prove a negative. Science can never prove that there is no risk associated with chemicals. Opposing views in science are common, but do not necessarily carry equal weight. There is always the argument that synthetic or natural chemicals that are safe alone, may trigger cancer in a combination. Almost any position can be supported by the data. There are no safe substances, only safe ways to use substances.

The key is education! Common sense tells us that everything in moderation is what works. Too much of a good thing can end up being bad for you, synthetic or natural. For example, blueberries are excellent for you to eat. But consuming copious amounts of them daily may not be so good for you after a while. When it comes to skin care products, switch up your regimens depending on the time of year. For me personally, I love that I can go to one company for my different skin care needs and issues. Depending on the time of year, my skin changes. Most people probably don’t even realize that they need to switch up their routine to address changes throughout the year. I’m thankful that a company like Rodan + Fields takes care of all this for me. For example, in the fall and winter, my skin tends to either be dry or I’m dealing with allergies, so switching between SOOTHE and REDEFINE during these two seasons addresses my needs. In the spring and summer time, I have to make sure to stay out of the sun as much as possible or my skin will easily get dark spots or hyper pigmented, so REVERSE is a life-saver for me. And for the occasional breakout, I dab a little UNBLEMISH dual intensive acne treatment on my pimples, and they’re gone in a day or two.

The next time you purchase skin care products, educate yourself as to whether the ingredients are proven safe and effective. Are they backed by clinical studies? Are the concentration and delivery of the ingredients appropriate?

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